Georgian Rarities, Served Without Fanfare, at Chama Mama
This Chelsea restaurant, where gandzili, a cousin to ramps, is served alongside the better-known adjaruli khachapuri, honors the cuisine’s rustic simplicity.
Ekala is a prickly climber akin to North American greenbrier, often dismissed as a troublemaking weed. In the Imereti region of Georgia, its crisp young shoots are gathered in spring, before their thorns sharpen, when they’re as skinny and fragile as first asparagus, and pickled to last.
It rarely makes its way to New York, ...