Eneko at One Aldwych is a poor relation to its Basque sibling

Azurmendi, a short drive from the centre of Bilbao, is one of those restaurants food groupies plan holidays around. Eneko Atxa's three-Michelin star venue is like an epicurean Bond lair, a glass cube squatting in its own lavish herb garden, which guests are obliged to peruse before they begin their multitude of courses. Atxa himself is culinary royalty, the equivalent of a Messi or Ronaldo, or at least an Ibrahimovic; his restaurant peaked at 16 in this year's coveted "50 Best" list.

So yo...