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Not the Corned Beef of Yore

Corned beef and cabbage is the scent of St. Patrick's Day. A low, spicy pong of coriander and pepper, garlic and beef that carries a sweet, vegetal steaminess: the smell of low tide, ambrosia or a middle-school cafeteria, depending on your experience. For a large number of Americans, particularly Irish-Americans and particularly at this time of year, as shamrock posters appear on cubicle walls, deli cases and in the windows of liquor stores, it is a smell that signals the arrival of spring and t

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