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Kingdom by the Sea

REVERSAL OF FORTUNE

The actor Jeremy Irons on his yawl under the gaze of Kilcoe Castle, in Ireland.

Somewhere between Ballydehob and Skibbereen, the G.P.S. directed me down a narrow country road toward an indentation in the southwestern Irish coast called Roaringwater Bay. The castle I was looking for had been one of the last to fall to the English, in the early 1600s, in a coda to the historic Battle of Kinsale, which sealed Elizabethan England's conquest of Gaelic Ireland. The Crow

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